Diploids, triploids and tetraploids –
why breed for tetraploid reds? For clarification: “n” equals 19,
which is the number of chromosomes in either the pollen or the ovule
of a normal diploid phalaenopsis. In a full set of genetic
material, consisting of paired chromosomes, there will be 2n or 38
chromosomes. In a triploid plant, there are 3n or 57 chromosomes;
in a tetraploid, there are 4n or 76 chromosomes and, in an
aneuploid, which results from breeding a diploid or a tetraploid
with a triploid, there is an abnormal or odd number of chromosomes.
The major reasons for breeding
towards tetraploid red phalaenopsis is to increase flower size and
to obtain a more standard phalaenopsis shape. Increased flower count
and better presentation are additional breeding goals. Better growth
of seedlings with fewer months to flowering is an often overlooked
breeding goal. Breeding with good stable tetraploid plants does much
to achieve even rapid growth of seedlings. Anueploid seedlings
often have poor growth and many breeders of so-called novelty
phalaenopsis have found that their crosses often take much longer to
flower than tetraploid whites and pinks. Tetraploid reds and
yellows in Taiwan may bloom in two years. I can bloom them in two
and a half to three years and I’m not really equipped for rapid
growing. This is a major reason that the Taiwan breeders have taken
the lead in the production of new red and yellow Phalaenopsis
hybrids. An additional problem in earlier red breeding programs was
the use of Phal. George Vasquez ‘Eureka’, FCC/AOS. This plant is a
diploid but grows and matures very slowly. Unfortunately, it also
transmits this characteristic to its progeny.
Almost all of U.S. breeding has been
with diploids, triploids, and the aneuploids that have resulted from
breeding triploid reds to diploids and tetraploids. Aneuploids were
also produced through attempts to increase flower size by breeding
triploid reds to tetraploid pinks and stripes.
Diploid red breeding has reached a
high level of quality and, as we have seen with Eric Goo’s work, is
well worth pursuing. However, great care must be taken to mate
diploids to diploids. The use of plants such as Phal Cordova, Phal.
Golden Buddha or Phal. Spirit House leads to problems. Most
attempts to increase size and flower count with diploid red breeding
lines has resulted in the production of triploids. Unfortunately,
triploid phalaenopsis will often produce seed, and the results of
using “anything that will breed,” has produced a sea of aneuploids,
which are then used in further breeding attempts. The outcome of
this type of breeding is the well-known "sterility barrier" so
common in today’s phalaenopsis breeding.
To give perspective to the problem,
consider what a well-known and experienced phalaenopsis
breeder observed in a recent article in the Phalaenopsis Journal
that with the matching of Phal. Golden Buddha with Phal. Zuma
Garnet, the first of the “new” red phals was produced. More
specifically, the near-tetraploid aneuploid Phal. Golden Buddha was
crossed with the diploid Phal. Zuma Garnet to produce the aneuploid
plants registered as Phalaenopsis Cordova. Based on what we know
about chromosomes and their relationship to plant sterility,
Phalaenopsis Cordova should never be used for breeding. Crosses of
this nature produce dead ends. Most plants of Phal. Cordova that
have been used for breeding are near triploid aneuploids and are
poor breeders. One clone, Phal. Cordova ‘Leucadia’, HCC/AOS is a
good breeder. In the spectrum of aneuploids that usually result
from the mating of a triploid with a diploid, tetraploid or
aneuploid, it is possible to get a few clones that are near
tetraploids or pentaploids that breed freely. If such a clone is
near tetraploid, it may be used for breeding without causing too
many problems. I have not yet counted Phal. Cordova ‘Leucadia’,
HCC/AOS but suspect from its progeny that it is a near
tetraploid. The test I usually apply here is that, if a plant
produces highly fertile pollen, then it is probably close to even
ploidy. I have examined a few plants that broke this “rule” but
those plants that are the exception may be combining chromosomes
during pollen meiosis in a way that results in a high number of
viable pollen cells with even or nearly even ploidy. Plants that
never breed except as pod parents are trying to tell us something!
Don’t use them for breeding!
The degree to which triploid and
aneuploid plants have been used in breeding for reds – and yellows –
is such that it is amazing that any fertile plants can be found.
All of this type of breeding should be avoided if one wants to
achieve good-sized red phalaenopsis with other desirable traits and
with fertility the expected norm instead of a rarity. Instead,
breeders must rely on chance tetraploids such as Phal. Paifang’s
Queen ‘Brother’ and Phal. Taipei Gold ‘Gold Star’ or documented
colchicine-converted diploids. All chance tetraploids must be
documented by accurate chromosome counting. One additional
important concept here is that converting triploids to hexaploids
through colchicine treatment does not produce good breeding plants
because hexaploids do not produce stable, even ploidy in their
offspring.
Why consider yellow flowers in red
breeding? There is no true red phalaenopsis in nature. So we
create red by combining pigments. Without strong yellow pigment,
you do not obtain strong red color. You need to produce good
tetraploid yellows in order to mate them with tetraploid dark pinks
or lavenders. Where do we get good tetraploid yellows?
The stage was set by the use of one
of those pesky triploid plants, Phal Golden Sands ‘Canary',
FCC/AOS. Phal. Golden Sands ‘Canary’, FCC/AOS was out of a cross of
a large white and Phalaenopsis fasciata. The cross produced a lot
of good-looking triploid yellows, but the clone ‘Canary’ had the
best color. Several years of breeding attempts yielded nothing, and
the plant was thought to be sterile. Later, several species were
bred to this plant, and these crosses have produced many outstanding
yellows: Phal. Liu Tuen-Shen (Golden Sands x gigantea); Phal. Golden
Amboin (Golden Sands x amboinensis); Phal. Goldiana (Golden Sands x
lueddemanniana); and more recently Phal. Golden Bells (Golden Sands
x venosa).
Phal. Golden Amboin and Phal. Liu
Tuen-Shen have both been very important on the way to reds, but
Phal. Golden Bells will also prove to be very important in the
future. These plants are of great importance because they are good
tetraploid yellows with strong color, good size and shape, and
relatively high flower count.
Why are they tetraploids? It turns
out that Phal. Golden Sands ‘Canary’, FCC/AOS is a rare plant that
gave up trying to split three chromosome sets, and lumped everything
together into a 3n ovule. It does not produce viable pollen. So,
when matched with pollen (n) from a diploid species, tetraploids
(4n) resulted, and the stage was set for producing good, tetraploid
yellows and reds. Not all of the progeny from ‘Canary’, FCC/AOS and
a diploid are even tetraploids but many are. The best test is if
they can breed as a pollen parent. Another modern tetraploid
yellow, Phal. Taipei Gold ‘Gold Star’, was a chance tetraploid in an
otherwise triploid grex. This plant will also continue to play a
part in the development of large red phalaenopsis.
Now it seemed all we needed was a
good source of dark pinks or lavenders. But crossing tetraploid
yellows to tetraploid pinks often produced sunset colors, so this
line of breeding was not pursued in the search for clear reds. With
time, and line breeding, this approach would have succeeded, and you
will see more of this type of breeding in the future.
In Taiwan, the crossing of a large
white, Phal. Mount Kaala, with Phal. pulchra produced an array of
triploid plants with pink to lavender blotches and spots. One of
the plants produced had darker color but poor form. It probably
would not have been used for breeding in this country. A very
observant breeder in Taiwan, however, tried the plant and found it
to be fertile. This plant would be known as Phal. Paifang’s Queen
‘Brother’, a rare chance-tetraploid resulting from an unreduced 2n
pollen cell from the Phal. pulchra.
Brother Orchids used this plant for
breeding, and over time, found that, by matching it to plants such
as Phal. Liu Tuen-Shen and Phal. Golden Amboin, heavily pigmented,
fertile flowers were produced. Subsequent line breeding by Brother
Orchids and others has resulted in a wide selection of heavily
spotted and solid red flowers with good fertility and a size ranging
from 7 cm. to about 9 cm. To obtain larger sized flowers, we must
now concentrate on breeding this wealth of material to large, dark
pinks to produce the final result – 10 cm. reds. Some of this
breeding is already accomplished with crosses such as Dtps. Brother
Cortez Red showing the way. We are within a generation or two of
our goal. The plants now available allow any serious breeder to
produce a line of large, free-breeding, red phals. Some of those
commonly available that can be used to produce good tetraploid reds
follow. But beware of crosses such as Sogo Cock and Sogo Rose.
Despite their awards and visual appeal, these plants are also
triploids or aneuploids.
Below are selected grexes of known ploidy:
DIPLOIDS (alphabetical order) :
Abed-nego, Ambonosa, Black Eagle, Dotty Woodson, George Vazquez, Malibu
Imp, Princess Kaiulani, Red Elf, Tabasco Tex, Zuma Garnet
TRIPLOIDS: Brother Fancy Free, Brother Love Song, Brother
Pico Mary, Brother Ruby, Brother Sandra, Jenco Ruby Princess, Perfection
Is, Sogo Grape, Sogo Redbird, Talung’s Red Fire, Yuda Sun, Pago Pago,
Penang, Stone Hot, Sweet Memory, Orchid World, Sogo Cock, Sogo Rose
ANEUPLOIDS: Ai Gold
(near-tetraploid), Ambo Buddha, Cadiz Rock
(some clones are near tetraploid), Cordova, Deventeriana ‘Treva’, AM/AOS (this is a near-tetraploid), Ember, Franz Liszt, Golden Buddha
(some clones are near tetraploid), Leucadia Lava Flow, Mahalo, Red Hot
Imp, Spirit House, Summer Wine, Rebel, Red Buddha, Red Thrill, Rose Gold
(near-tetraploid), Sogo Pony
TETRAPLOIDS USEFUL IN BREEDING:
Auckland Buddha, Black Rose, Brother Delight, Brother Fancy, Brother
Glamour, Brother Jungle Cat, Brother Kaiser, Brother Passion,
Brother Peacock, Brother Pirate King, Brother Precious Stones, Brother
Purple, Brother Sally Taylor, Brother Spots Way, Brother Supersonic,
Brother Utopia, Brother Yew ‘La Flora’, Chimei Buddha, Ching Her Goddess, Chingruey’s
Blood-Red Sun, Chingruey’s
Goddess, Chingruey’s Sika Deer, Dou-dii Golden Princess, Fortune Buddha
‘Tinny’, Golden Amboin, Golden Bells, Golden Peoker, Golden Sun, Goldiana,
Liu Tuen-Shen, Paifang’s Auckland, Paifang’s
Queen ‘Brother’, Queen Spot, Salu Peoker, Salu Spot, Sentra,
Salu Sun, Sara Lee ‘Eye Dee’, Sogo Champion, Sogo Yew, Strawberry Wine,
Super Stupid, Taipei Gold ‘Gold Star’
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH DEAN STOCK
Q.
I understand that you recommend the use of tetraploid parents to give
tetraploid offspring. Are there exceptions? (After all, Golden Sands
‘Canary’ produced Liu Tuen-Shen and Golden Amboin.)
A. Normally, you would expect most
successful tetraploid breeding clones to come from tetraploid x
tetraploid crosses. Plants like Golden Sands 'Canary' are rare and
not all of the progeny (with a diploid) are tetraploid but
fortunately, many are. Tetraploids occur, but infrequently, in
crosses between most triploids and diploids such as in the case of
P. Taipei Gold 'Gold Star' and Paifang's Queen 'Brother'. Almost
all of the plants from these crosses were triploid. Some of the
original P. Golden Buddhas were tetraploid. Unfortunately, these
were sib crossed with triploids which produced aneuploid P. Golden
Buddhas. The successful breeders of this group were near tetraploid
and these have been line bred so that they are now pretty close to
tetraploid and cause few problems.
Q. You have mentioned
that multifloras are really “screwed up” (my term, not yours)
because of breeding diploids, triploids and tetraploids. Is there
any way out of this mess?
A. Many of the smaller flowered
"multiflorals" are good diploids. The problems arise when one
tries to cross these with larger whites, pinks, harlequins,
etc., which are tetraploids. The way out of this is to
colchicine treat those lines that may be useful and also to use
P. Sara Lee 'Eye Dee' (tetraploid) to make multiflorals. Much
of this type of breeding has already been done in an array of
colors. P. Brother Sara Gold is a good example of this line of
breeding.
Q. Assuming that all
species, primary hybrids and similar hybrids are diploids, are there
tetraploid phals that are fragrant?
A. Most tetraploid phals have
little fragrance compared to diploid species such as P. violacea.
However, some of the recently developed clones of the magenta
and "blue" violacea may be tetraploid. There may be a very
fragrant tetraploid P. Sweet Memory lurking out there as I have
heard of one with fertile pollen out of this triploid grex.
Q. Princess Kaiulani
has produced some exceptional offspring. Are they all triploids or
aneuploids? If not, is there any way to “guarantee” tetraploids?
A. I do not know of any
tetraploid offspring of P. Kaiulani. It is very unfortunate that
plants of this grex were not colchicine converted to
tetraploids. The recently developed breeding line of P. Krull's Red
Hot and P. HP Norton may be as good for producing good saturated red
tetraploid flowers.
Q. Many plants hang a
pod quite easily, always with no seed. Is this common? Are they all
triploid and aneuploids?
A. Most aneuploids and some
triploids have great difficulty in producing viable seed.
However, seed production is more complex than simple ploidy
problems. It is not uncommon to find a good diploid or
tetraploid plant that does not produce fertile seed. I have had
mature tetraploid plants produce no seed one season and the next
year be very fertile both with pollen and pod. In addition,
some tetraploid first bloom plants are very fertile while others
must mature for a year or two to become fully fertile. The
factors controlling this are not yet well understood.
Q. Why are some
tetraploid crosses very fertile and others much less so?
A. I believe this has a lot to
do with the match between the genomes of different species
involved in making complex hybrids in phals. Some of the phal
species have a lot of "extra" DNA in the form of repeated DNA
sequences. These are not transcribed genes but may cause
mismatching during Meiosis. Meiotic configurations involving 4
sets of chromosomes can get a little complicated. Pentaploids
and Hexaploids (very rare) have even more problems and like
triploids, should not be used for breeding.
Q.
If you could give some advice to people buying plants/flasks on what
to look for, what would it be?
A. Big
subject!!!!! Depends on what the individual is after. Things to
watch for though are harlequins crossed with diploids; species
crossed with large pinks, whites, stripes, etc.; crosses with a
plant from a likely triploid cross (i.e. species to large whites)
used in breeding. I would avoid all of these combinations. If one
desires only a nice flower for sale as pot plant or for awards and
is not interested in further breeding, then forget ploidy issues
except that a triploid crossed to either a diploid or a tetraploid
may produce a lot of very poor flowers.
Q.
You like red phals. What are the 3 most important red phals in the
history of novelty breeding.
A. I do like red phals but I
breed only tetraploid reds. There are many good diploid reds.
If I had to choose my current favorite tetraploid red phals they
would be: P. Chingruey's Fancy 'Kimo'; P. Chingruey's Blood-Red
Sun (several clones); Haur Jih Fancy (many); P. Orchidview
Tabasco (many) and P. H.P. Norton (many). The three most
important phals in tetraploid red breeding are not red! These
would include P. Golden Amboin, P. Liu-Tuen Shen, and P.
Paifang's Queen 'Brother'.
Q. You state that to
produce red in phals, you need a yellow base. Is this to
cancel/neutralize the “blue” pigment that is so often present. (I am
referring to the reds that are red-purple.)
A. Yes, to achieve what we
perceive as true red in phals (rather than purple/red), one has
to add strong yellow from flavenoid and/or carotenoid pigments.
Q. Can you rank the
following qualities – easiest to obtain to hardest.
Size
Color
Form
Flower count
Shingling on inflorescence
A. Ranking
qualities in tetraploid phals that are easiest (1) to most difficult
(5):
1. Form
2. Flower count
3. Shingling on inflorescence
4. Color
5. Size
On any given day I might reverse the
last two!
Thanks, Dean!
FYI,
for readers, I would rank them as follows in red breeding:
1. Flower count
2. Shingling on inflorescence
3. Color
4. Size (this is nice but to me is
less important than form)
5. Form (full, flat, etc.)
Howard
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